Ueno Park: Something for Everyone

Can you picture one thousand cherry trees in full blossom? Do you crave ancient temples with beautiful architecture? Would you like to view the largest collection of Japanese art in the world? Do your kids like engaging, hands-on science museums? Do they like the zoo? Do you (nothing wrong with admitting it!)?

If so, you’ll love Ueno Park in Tokyo.

History

Ueno Park is more than just trees. There are tons of other sights to see, including amazing museums, shrines, and galleries.

Ueno was also the grounds of a temple designed to protect Edo Castle.

The Battle of Ueno (1868)

The park was the site of a battle between the shogun’s army and those wanting to restore the emperor to power.

The triumphant emperor gifted the land to the nation.

Ueno became Japan’s first public park and the site of its first museum, tram, and zoo. More than ten million people visit the park each year.

You’ll love the natural beauty and extensive museums, galleries, temples, and zoo.

The Park

Ueno is a breath of fresh air in busy Tokyo.

With wide boulevards and open spaces, the park has an expansive air. Food stalls sell Japanese specialties near the entrances. Buskers perform throughout the park, creating a lively atmosphere.

The Cherry Blossom Festival

The park is especially busy from late March to early April. There are over 1,000 cherry trees in blossom then. Crowds arrive for hanami (cherry blossom picnics) beneath the trees.

Summer and Fall

In summer, Shinobazu Pond is filled with lotus blossoms. In fall, the bright yellow ginkgo trees add amazing color to the park.

Temples

You’ll love Ueno Park’s cool collection of temples.

Ueno was originally the grounds of Kan’ei-ji temple. Constructed by the Tokugawa shogunate, the temple protected Edo Castle.

Kanei-ji Saigo Takamori — Korkusung / Shutterstock.com

Most of the temples perished in the battle of Ueno (1868).

All that’s left: the five-story pagoda, the main hall, and a statue of Saigo Takamori. Saigo was one of the battle’s leading figures.

Toshogu Shrine

Toshogu, a shrine dedicated to the first Tokugawa shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu, is particularly fine. Most of the buildings date from 1651 when Ieyasu’s grandson upgraded the shrine.

You’ll gasp at how well maintained it is. The most recent restoration finished in 2014, making now an excellent time to visit.

The Design

While the innermost buildings are not open to the public, there’s still lots to admire.

The ornate carvings feature bright colors, which is unusual for a Japanese shrine.

The gold foil on Konjiki-den (the golden hall) demonstrates the power and wealth of the shoguns. The foil provides a beautiful contrast to the dark grain of the wood used to construct the temple.

Pay special attention to the colorful Sukibei wall (a beautifully designed “see-through” type of all) surrounding the shrine building.

Chinese Influence

Feast your eyes on the Karamon, the Chinese style gate. According to legend, the Karamon’s two dragons sneak off each night and take a drink in Shinobazu Lake.

Chinese design influenced Toshogu’s appearance.

The garden honors Chinese influence and promotes harmonious relationships between China and Japan.

The peony garden dates from 1980. The peony came to Japan from China and became popular during the Edo period.

Shrine Hours

October-February: 9:00-16:30
March to September: 9:00-17:30

Admission

Shrine Entrance Fee: 500 for adults (13 and older)
6-12 years old: 200 yen

Peony Garden Hours

April 11 – May 10: 9:00 – 17:30

Peony Garden Admission

Peony Garden: 700 yen
Combination ticket for both the shrine and garden: 1,100 yen

Toshogu’s grounds are free to explore.

For More Information

Ueno Toshogu Shrine Website

The Mausoleum

More traces of the Tokugawa shoguns appear in the mausoleum of Tokugawa Tsunayoshi.

The mausoleum was once part of Kan’ei-ji temple. The mausoleum, built in 1709, sits in what remains of Kanei-ji temple near the Children’s library.

Kiyomizu Temple

If you can’t make it to Kiyomizudera in Kyoto, try Ueno’s Kiyomizu temple.

The view from the stage platform goes clear across Shinobazu Lake. The platform is a smaller replica of Kiyomizu-dera’s iconic platform.

Kiyomizu’s dedicated to the goddess of fertility and child rearing. Couples wanting to conceive leave dolls at the temple.

Bentendo Temple

In the center of Shinobazu Lake, you’ll find the charming Bentendo Temple.

The temple is devoted to Benten, the goddess of fortune, wealth, knowledge, and music.

Much of Bentendo’s charm comes from its location on an island, surrounded by lotus blooms. You’ll cross a bridge over the lake to get there.

Bentendo doesn’t have Toshogu’s grandeur or history. It has something else, though. Bentendo’s charming atmosphere makes it a relaxing destination.

Museums and Galleries

Japan’s first museum, The Tokyo National Museum, opened in Ueno in 1872.

Ueno’s collection of museums has grown since then. There’s so many you can’t visit them all in one day.

Most museums in Ueno close Mondays and year-end holidays. When Monday is a national holiday, the museums are open and will be closed the next day.

Tokyo National Museum

The Tokyo National Museum houses the world’s largest collection of Japanese art.

The museum has 1100,00 items. They include kimono, Buddhist sculptures, ceramics, woodcuts, decorated screens, and scrolls. The museum rotates displays to keep visitors coming back.

The Exhibits

Tokyo National Museum Exhibit — topphoto/Depositphotos.com

The Honkan, the original museum building, houses the Japanese art collection.
The Hyokeikan, an interesting example of Meiji-era Western architecture, houses visiting exhibits.
The Heiseikan exhibits focus on Ancient Japan.
The Toyokan specializes in Asian art and artifacts.
Items donated by Nara’s Horyuji temple are in the Horyuji Treasure Hall.
The Kuroda Memorial Hall displays paintings by Kuroda Seiki. Kuroda is the father of modern art in Japan.

There’s far more here than can you can see in one day. I recommend spending a few hours in the Honkan before heading to the Horyuji treasure hall.